Choosing your alarm system

1. The 3 main types of alarm systems

Before comparing brands, understand the category. 95% of disputes between customers and installers stem from a misunderstanding of what is actually being sold.

🛎️ The “local” (standalone) alarm

A control panel, sensors, and a siren: that’s it. In the event of an intrusion, the siren sounds (110 dB on average) to scare off the intruder and alert the neighbourhood. No call to a monitoring centre, no intervention. Advantage: zero recurring costs. Disadvantage: if you are on holiday and no one hears the siren, you will discover the burglary upon your return. Suitable for dense urban flats and small budgets.

📡 The connected alarm (notification)

Same principle as the local alarm, but the control panel is connected to Wi-Fi or 4G. In the event of an alert, you receive a notification on your smartphone and can check the cameras remotely. You decide for yourself whether to call the police, a neighbour, or head home. This is the segment that has been booming since 2020 (Verisure, Ring, Ajax, etc.). Suitable for busy smartphone users who do not travel often.

🛡️ Professional monitoring

The alert is sent to an accredited monitoring centre that operates 24/7. An operator performs a verification (video or audio) and then acts according to the protocol: contacting a trusted neighbour, dispatching a private security guard, or calling the police. This is the most expensive option (£40-£90/month) but the only one where someone takes action while you are away. Essential for businesses, and recommended for isolated homes and high-end properties.

2. Wireless or wired?

The debate is almost obsolete in 2026. Encrypted two-way wireless radio (Jeweller, S2, Honeywell SiX technologies) is as reliable as wired systems and requires no drilling into walls. Wired systems remain relevant only for new builds where cables are installed alongside the electrical wiring, or for professional sites requiring total network autonomy.

For 99% of private individuals, go for a wireless system. Check two things: battery life (minimum 5 years for peace of mind) and the presence of a 4G/GSM backup in case of an Internet outage — without this, your connected alarm becomes silent if the broadband connection is cut.

3. Remote monitoring: useful or just marketing?

The real question is: who acts when the alarm goes off? A neighbour woken up at 3 a.m. by your siren will not call the police (this is statistically proven). If you are on holiday 6,000 km away, you cannot do anything. Remote monitoring solves exactly this problem.

That said, beware of marketing hype. Check:

• The centre’s accreditation (in the UK: Security Industry Authority (SIA) standards). Without proper accreditation, the operator has no authority to coordinate an effective response.
• The number of simultaneous operators. A small centre can be overwhelmed on a stormy night and process your alert with a 20-minute delay.
• The cost of on-site intervention. Many contracts advertise “intervention included” but charge £80 to £150 for every call-out. Read the T&Cs.
• The contractual response time. Serious standard: less than 30 minutes in urban areas. Anything over 1 hour is just for show.

4. The 8 criteria to check before signing

• 1. Contract length. Contracts range from 0 (no commitment) to 60 months. A serious installer offers a maximum of 12 months. Anything longer is often used to pay off “free” equipment: refuse it.
• 2. Equipment ownership. Do you own the equipment or is it rented? If it is rented, what happens at the end of the contract? Is there a free collection or a penalty fee?
• 3. Sensor coverage. How many sensors are included in the package, and how many are needed to actually cover your home? A semi-detached house = minimum 4 door sensors + 2 motion detectors.
• 4. Verification method. Video, audio, or both? Audio-only verification often misses subtle intrusions (pets, misidentified draughts, etc.). Video is more reliable but raises privacy concerns — check GDPR compliance.
• 5. Equipment warranty. 2 years minimum (statutory warranty). Good installers offer 5 years.
• 6. After-sales service. Response time for breakdowns? How many years are spare parts available? A non-accredited system can become a burden after 18 months.
• 7. Insurance compatibility. Some insurers require specific security standards to grant a premium discount or activate your home/contents insurance burglary cover. Ask for the list of approved brands before signing.
• 8. Termination conditions. Notice period? Fees? Equipment recovery? In 80% of disputes, the customer had not read this section.

5. How much does it really cost?

Three cost areas to anticipate:

• Equipment. Entry-level DIY kit: £130-£260. Mid-range kit with external siren and camera: £430-£780. Professional installation with control panel and 6+ detectors: £1,000-£2,200.
• Subscription. £0/month for standalone DIY. £8-£16/month for basic notifications. £35-£75/month for full professional monitoring.
• Call-outs. £0 for most providers in case of false alarms (first 2-3), then £45-£130. Check this in your terms and conditions.

Over 5 years, the total cost of an entry-level connected system is around £950. A full professional monitoring system: £3,000-£4,800. To put this in perspective: the average excess on home/contents insurance is £200-£400, and the median loss from a burglary in the United Kingdom is approximately £2,800 according to national crime statistics.

6. Common mistakes to avoid

• ❌ Buying a kit without assessing your home. A glass back door doesn’t need an opening sensor, but a glass-break detector. Common mistake: 4 sensors on front windows and zero at the back.
• ❌ Choosing based solely on price. A £8/month subscription without professional verification is purely decorative. Price is not the right metric: the chain of action is.
• ❌ Hiding the alarm. A visible external siren and a sticker at the entrance have a proven deterrent effect: 60% of burglars avoid a property with a visible alarm.
• ❌ Forgetting maintenance. Batteries need changing every 3-5 years, firmware updates, and monthly siren tests. Without this, when the time comes, the system may be in fault mode.
• ❌ Underestimating camera coverage. A camera pointed at public areas beyond your property boundary may breach UK GDPR and privacy laws. You risk legal challenges and your footage may be inadmissible in court.

7. Do you need to register your alarm?

In the United Kingdom, you do not need to register your private alarm with the local council. However, if your system is monitored, ensure your provider is registered with an accredited body (such as the NSI or SSAIB). In the event of a burglary, always call 999 if the crime is in progress, or 101 for non-emergencies to obtain a crime reference number, which is essential for your insurance claim.

Remember to notify your home/contents insurer. The presence of a professionally installed and maintained alarm system often entitles you to a premium discount of 5% to 15% with most providers. Over 10 years, this can cover a significant portion of the system’s cost.